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Turks and Caicos Cool

 

Imagine a breeze blowing at 75 degrees, sand soft as silk, endless blue skies and calm, warm water lapping at your feet.  Your rum punch is getting low so you stroll back to the beach chaise and retrieve your handy “service” flag.  Before you have time to stick it in the sand, a waiter appears.   How did life get so good?  That’s what I thought on the first day we arrived at the Grace Bay Club on Providenciales (

Provo) in the Turks and Caicos Islands of the British West Indies . Little did I know it would get better.

Located between the Bahamas and the Dominican Republic, Provo is one of only eight inhabited islands and cays in the 40 island Turks and Caicos chain.  Tourists come to dive on the world’s third largest coral reef, fish, sail, eat conch ten ways and just hang out on the islands’ magnificent beaches.   

The official capital of Turks and Caicos (TCI) is Grand Turk Island , but the hub of tourism is Provo.  Steve and I discovered Provo in the late eighties when we brought our young family for a vacation at Club Med Turkoise. I remember being awed by Grace Bay’s fine white sand and warm water so clear you could snorkel for miles with schools of fish that seemed as curious about us as we were about them.  At that time, not much else was happening on the island. 

Fast forward to 1993, when Grace Bay Club opened on 11 acres of undisturbed beachfront as the only all-suite hotel. Additions in the last few years include the 5,000 square foot Anani Spa and Fitness Center, on-the-beach pool, 38 all-suite Villas, the worlds longest infinity edge bar, a kids eco- friendly program and The Estate, a collection of twenty-two custom designed owner/rental suites.

Our journey to Provo began in a snowstorm and ended with blue skies and sun. Like a bunch of shipwrecked sailors, we all but kissed the ground when we arrived.

Grace Bay’s reception staff greeted us with rum punch and radiant smiles. From that day forward, we were treated as if our every need was theirs. From dining under the stars to beach massages to luxurious suites stocked with fruit, champagne and coffee, we were pampered. Every evening housekeepers surprised us with a treat. One night it was chocolate covered strawberries, another night a bougainvillea filled bubble bath.  

The days rushed by. We rented open air jeeps to tour the island and had a near death experience getting used to British driving rules. At the island’s famous Da Conch Shack, we helped clean freshly caught conchs which then became our lunch.

 

 On another day we went with Caicos Dream Tours to snorkel on the reef.  Each evening we watched the sun set and wandered to the Infinity Bar to chat with other guests. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 One couple from New York told us they had been coming to Provo

for ten years and had tried all of the hotels at least once.  This was their second time staying at Grace Bay Club and would be the only place they would come in the future. Their reason?  The staff made them feel at home. We couldn’t agree more.      

By the time we left, we were on a first name basis with everyone. In all my travels I never came away from a trip with more business cards and promises to “keep in touch.” These are people, and a very special place, that I am truly looking forward to seeing again.

The Basics:

 

Turks & Caicos Tourist Board: www.turksandcaicostourism.com. 800-241-0824

Providenciales:

Stubbs

Diamond

Plaza

: 649-946-4970

Grand Turk:

Front Street

: 649-946-2321

www.provo.net: travel planning.

www.turksandcaisos.tc: Great information for lesser known islands.

www.timespub.tc:  A monthly magazine filled with interesting facts.

www.wherewhenhow.com: What is happening on the island and a restaurant guide.

www.gracebayclub.com:  My pick for the best of the best.

Currency:  U.S. Dollar

Passport Required

Electricity: 120 volts, 60 cycles AC

Language: English

Departure Tax: $39.00

Not To Miss:

Conch Diving, Snorkeling, Fishing, Island tours:  www.caicosdreamtours.com. 649-231-7272.

Conch Farm Visit:  http://www.caicosconchfarm.com.649-946-5643. Learn how the Caribbean Queen Conch is raised. 

Parasailing over

Grace

Bay

: www.captainmarvinsparasail.com.  649-231-0643

Sailing charters: www.sailprovo.com. 649-946-4783. Design your own day trip adventure to the outlying islands.

Eco Touring: www.bigblue.tc. 649-946-5034.  Kayak, snorkel and tour the

Caicos Islands

without leaving a footprint behind.

Where To Eat:

Anacaona: www.gracebayclub.com. 649-946-5050. Executive Chef Martin Davies has worked at some of the finest restaurants on both sides of the pond. From The Dorchester to The Savoy and then Asia de Cuba in

London

he honed his skills only to be wooed to

Paris

to open Il Cotile with Alain Ducasse. Then across the Pond to

New York

’s China Grill and SoHo House and back again to

London

before he discovered Providenciales and its top quality resorts. A must is his Pan-Seared Foie Gras with a Diver Scallop on Banana Bread French Toast.

Grill Rouge and the Infinity Bar: www.gracebayclub.com. Beachfront bistro with spectacular views of

Grace

Bay

.

Paris on a Budget

 

Although 2009 is turning out to be a “budget” year for my family, there are still basic necessities that must be taken care of and nurtured. At the top of my list are family, friends, food, shelter and Paris.  The first four may seem obvious, but without the joie de vivre that travel brings, life is as dull as our winter sky.  

In the past few years I will admit to having spoiled myself by staying at top rate hotels and dining in Michelen two star restaurants.   But faced with the prospects of not going to Paris at all, I recently set out to prove that I could have just as much fun on a budget.

Last summer my family rented a house on Nantucket Island through Vacation Rental by Owner, www.vrbo.com and had a wonderful experience.  I wondered if the company might also have rentals in Paris.

As it turned out, they are one of many companies offering apartment rentals in “The City of Lights.”  Size and location dictate price. I found a studio in the Marais for $1,200/week and a three bedroom houseboat on the Seine for $4,000/week.

I chose a one bedroom on Rue Dragon that had a nice eat in kitchen and windows facing the street. Part of my budget plan was to limit eating out to one meal a day, so I could afford a good one.  And who wants to pay $50.00 for breakfast at the George V anyway?  My Left Bank apartment was surrounded by trendy boutiques and cute mom and pop restaurants.  Le Bon Marche department store with it’s basement gourmet market, Le Grand Epicerie, was within walking distance so I loaded up on my favorite cheeses, pate, wine and fruit. For bread selections, nothing beats Le Boule Miche Boulangerie/Patisserie, which just happened to be directly across the street from where I was staying. The bakery opened its doors at 7 a.m. and by 8 a.m. there was a line down the block. A shot of French espresso and a croissant became my morning ritual and on days when my budget wouldn’t allow for a sit down lunch, I would buy a ham and cheese Panini to go. 

I purchased a Paris Pass which allowed me free access to all museums, attractions and the Metro.  My week flew by as I loaded up on culture instead of heavy meals and flea market finds instead of luxury goods.  On my last night I had saved enough to splurge on a bottle of Billecart-Salmon Champagne and Pate de Foie Gras which I spread on a fresh baguette from Le Boule Miche.    

Where are the jogging tracks.  Nevermind.  I forgot my shoes.

Apartment rentals:

www.vrbo.com

www.beau-paris.com

www.welcome2france.com

www.parisattitude.com

www.paristay.com

www.all-paris-apartments.com

www.stayparis.com

 

Good Value Hotels and B& B’s:

Hotel Lindbergh: 5 rue Chomel. www.hotellindbergh.com

Hotel le Clement: 6 rue Clement. www.hotel-clement.fr.

Hotel du College de France: 7 rue Thenard.  www.hotelcollegedefrance.com.

Hotel Chopin: 46 passage Jouffroy. www.hotelchopin.fr

Hotel Langlois: 63 rue St. Lazarre. www.hotel-langlois.com

Hotel Prince Albert Louvre: www.hotelprincealbert.com

B&B’s: www.bedbreak.comor www.meetingthefrench.com

Tourist Passes: www.paris-pass.comincludes:

Paris Museum Pass: free entrance to Paris’ museums and monuments.

Paris Attractions Pass : entrance to Paris ’ popular attractions including the Seine River Cruise.

MetroPass : Unlimited travel on the metro, buses and RER in central Paris arrondissements.

Shopping Pass:  Galleries Lafayette , Printemps and Le Bon Marche all offer 10% discount card to non EU residents.  Stop by their information desk on the main floor and show your passport to receive a discount card for the day. 

Good value Bistros:

L’Ebauchoir:  43 rue de Citeaux.  www.lebauchoir.comMetro: Faidherbe-Chaligny.

La Boulangerie: 15 rue des Panoyaux. 33 (01) 14358 Metro: Menilmontant

Les Racines: 22 rue Monsieur Le Prince. 33 (01) 43 26 03 86  Metro: Odeon

Chez Germaine: 30 rue Pierre Leroux. 33 (01)42 73 28 34 Metro: Vaneau

Vins des Pyrenees : 25 rue Beautreillis. 33 (01) 42 72 64 94  Metro: St-Paul

Chez Clement: 9 Pl St-Andre-des-Arts. 33 (01)45 48 29 94 Metro: St. Michel

Mayflower Inn has Love is in the air

If you're still not sure where to go this Valentine's Day, try the Mayflower Inn, just two hours from NYC.  You won't be  disappointed.  Read my article below.
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Park City Summer Fun

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Sante Fe, New Mexico Magic

Sante Fe, New Mexico combines the best of beautiful landscapes, glorious sunsets and magical energy that makes you want to paint.  Read my article below. 

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San Miguel de Allende Glam Mexico

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Who knew that Dolphins loved lipstick?   That's what I found out when I went to visit the Atlantis Resort on Paradise Island in the Bahamas.  Read my article for more.  

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Nantucket for Glam Gals and Ma's

Nantucket Island is located about thirty miles off the coast of Massachusetts and unless you are a very, very strong swimmer the only way to get there is by boat or plane.  That's a good thing because it limits the number of un-glam folks who visit.   Of course being a close to Boston destination it's counter-intuitive to imagine that you will know who the Glam or unglam folks are.   Like much of NONY (North of New York) it is more chic to look un-chic than chic.  In my latest trip, I saw only one Monolo pair of sandals.  However, that doesn't mean that the shops don't carry some gorgeous goods. Insider chic is carrying a generations old Nantucket Lightship Basket that has your Great-Great Grandmother's name engraved on the inside.  I don't have that but I did invest in a baby lightship basket for Meg so she can hand it down to her children. 

Shopping on the island takes place mostly in the town of Nantucket.  The streets are choc-a-bloc with the 1840's homes that have been lovingly renovated.  Some have added storefronts, some not.  This is my list of favorites: 

Entertaining, Gifts and Linens

Best of the Beach: 2 Straight Wharf,www.botbeach.com. Table linens from Home James in the Hamptons, Mother of Pearl lined serving dishes from Julia Knight, bed linens, clothing and all kinds of entertaining accessories.

Brown Basket Gallery: 9 Old South Wharf.  Original Nantucket Lightship Baskets made by hand by G.L. Brown who has been doing it for over thirty years.

Cold Noses: The Courtyard at Straight Wharf, www.coldnoses.net.  If you are like me you have to take home a gift for Fido.  I bought mine a Nantucket sweater. 

Sandy Paws of Nantucket: 4 South Water Street.  This is an alternative that also carries animal themed items for the home.

Trillium: 17 Center Street. www.trilliumnantucket.com.  Magnificent table top items including placemats and napkin ring holders by Kim Seibert and a line of designer melamite dishes for serving dinner on the deck.

L'lle de France: 8 India Street. www.frenchgeneralstore.com.  I have long collected French santons and low and behold, Michel and Joyce Berruet carry them here.  The store will be closing in 2009 so if you want any kind of specialized French serving container, shop now.

Claire Murray Lifestyles: 11 South Water Street. www.clairemurray.com.  Hand-hooked rugs and home accessories you won't be able to live without once you see them.

Beach Glass of Nantucket : 47 Straight Wharf. www.beach-glass.com.  Beautiful glass jewelry and home accessories perfect for gifting.

It's a Shore Thing: The Courtyard at Straight Wharf.  Beachy jewelry, pottery and other fun stuff to cram into your suitcase.

Expressions of Don Freedman: 14 Centre Street.  Old nautical clocks, new clocks, candlesticks and more clocks.  You've got to visit to understand how timely this store is.

The Lion's Paw: 0 Main Street. Handpainted furniture (yes they ship), linens, glassware and other home necessities.

   Clothing:  Nantucket  shopping is a tad bit schitzophrenic.  First there are the  "classic" Nantucket shops where you can buy your Nantucket Reds....shirts, shorts and even underwear that  looks like it has been washed a million times and faded to just the right  red/orange hue. Murray's Toggery Shop is the home of the Nantucket Reds because the owner Philip Murray began the Reds line in the 1940's.   Check out the story and video interview at Plum TV Nantucket .

Actually any tee tee-shirt store you find will be stocked with the reds. I especially like Annie and the Tees at 46 Main Street and Three Girls and A Dog at 15 Centre Street.

Aside from beach attire you can also find fashionable seasonal clothing ranging from a casual to fashionista. Some well know brands include:

Vineyard Vines, 2 Harbor Square or Murray's                                                                                    

J McLaughlin, 1 Salem Street

Ralph Lauren at 16 Main Street

A hugh Lilly Pulitzer Store called In the Pink at 5 South Water Street. 

My favorite store in the Hamptons and NYC has a branch on Nantucket.  Leggiadro at 20 Center Street carries the best stretchy but still tailored and chic pants.

A new store to me, but now a fav is David Chase at 60 Main Street. He and his wife and darling daughter Samantha carry the Bogner line of upscale cottons for summer along with other great looks.   

Designer clothing can be found at CERI at 25 Centre Street and also an upstairs outlet on Main Street.  If you find that you haven't packed a wrap to keep you warm at night stop in at either Island Cashmere at 32 Centre or Johnstons Cashmere at 4 Federal Street.

Children: Need clothing for the little ones...run do not walk to  Pinwheels at 32 Center Street then hunt down Kidding Around at 2 Broad Street.  If you have a car also try The Children's Shop at Bayberry at 6 Bayberry Court.  If you want a real touch of old Nantucket head to The Toy Boat at 41 Straight Wharf where you will find island made toys, local children's books and folk toys from Europe.  For a keepsake start collecting the Nantucket Dolls sold at Pinwheels.  There is a new one every season.

Other shopping favorites for various reasons include:

Eye of the Needle at 14 Federal Street, Vis A Vis at 34 Main Street, Island Pursuit at 42 Main Street, Mister at 18 Federal Street, Nalu at 12 Candle Street and Peter Beaton Wharf Store at 39 Straight Wharf.

There are soooooo many more to choose from.  A complete listing can be found on The Nantucket Chamber of Commerce web site.

Restaurants: ..Just a few of my favorites.  Get the Nantucket Restaurant Guide published by The Inquirer and Mirror Newspaper.  It lists menus as well as giving a flavor of what each restaurant offers.

Casual Dining

Nantucket Pharmacy:  45 Main Street serves an eclectic array of meals from PB&J to Lobster Rolls

Black Eyed Susan's: 10 India Street serves the best breakfasts.  I love their huevos rancheros.  Meg loves their from scratch panckakes.

The Juice Bar: 12 Broad Street carries the best home made ice cream and waffle cones.

Even Keel Cafe: 40 Main Street is good for any time of day as is Arno's at 41 Main Street.

The Nantucket Lobster Trap is right on the wharf and very casual. They don't take reservations for tables less than 6 so the wait is sometimes long in season.

Upscale Dining

Nantucket looks so laid back from the outside that you never would imagine the dining could be as good as it is.   Think fine dining.  Of course given that many of Nantucket's regulars are from Boston and New York which both have the best of the best, I guess it's no surprise.   Again these are a FEW that just happen to appeal to me.   

21 Federal at 21 Federal Street :  This is a long story so until I can post ALL the details just trust me.  Go there for the food...yummmy  and for the bar.  Ask for Johnny and tell him to make you a Cosmo.  You won't be disappointed.

Company of the Cauldron:    7 India Street., Intimite dining with wonderful food

Toppers at the Wauwinet:  Oh My.  Dine on the terrace or more formal dining room. Just dine.

Other wonderful island choices include: Languedoc Bistro at 24 Broad Street,

I'm One and Walking- What now!